The open fire changes everything in fish cooking; salmon skewers are graced with a whiff of the great outdoors and cook dry, calling for a basting from the bright oil and herb marinade.

2 1/2 pounds skinned salmon fillets
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped and crushed
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup lemon juice
1 clove garlic, crushed
1/4 cup dry sherry
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
12 small green and red pepper wedges
12 small onion wedges
12 bamboo skewers
Crush the rosemary in mortar. In a small bowl combine the rosemary, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, sherry, salt, pepper and cayenne. Cut the salmon fillets into 1-by 4-inch strips. (Cut the fillet strips from head to tail rather than across the mediastinal muscle that runs down the center of the fish).

Place the salmon strips in the lemon, oil and herb mixture and marinate for 1 hour in the refrigerator, turning several times.

Remove the salmon from the marinade and shake dry. Reserve the marinade. Mount each sliver of salmon lengthwise on a skewer, piercing the salmon two or three times, and alternate with wedges of onion or pepper or both through the skewer.

Over a prepared fire with dark coals, brush the grill quickly with cooking oil, and place it 6 inches over the heat. Arrange the skewers in parallel lines in the center of the grill. Cook for 10 minutes before turning, brushing with the marinade as the food shows color. Serve over a plate of rise.

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"The Game & Fish Mastery Library SALMON" By S.G.B. Tennant, Jr., Photography by Arie de Zanger