The curling wisps of flavored smoke from the backyard grill reach over the gunnels of the foil boat, and bathe the fish in a wood-smoke accent that no oven can match. Slide the cooked fillets onto a plate for serving, and offer a spoonful of basmati rice to catch the cooking juices.

4 salmon steaks,
approximately 1 1/2 inches thick, bone in
1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme, crushed
4 lemon slices, paper thin
4 tablespoons dry white wine
Salt and pepper
Heavy-duty aluminum foil

Make a "boat" for each salmon steak using a double thickness of foil. The boats should be slightly larger than the steaks and about 2 inches tall. Do not close the top of the boats.
Into each boat sprinkle an equal portion of the scallions. Salt and pepper the steaks and place on top of the scallions. Divide the butter into thin slices and place equally on top of each steak. Sprinkle the thyme evenly among the steaks, and then place one lemon slice directly in the center of each steak. Gently pour 1 tablespoon of wine around the inside edge of each boat.

Over a fairly hot and smoking grill, place all the boats on the grill al one time, allowing the smoke to curl through the open boats and influence the steaks. Close the lid on the grill and allow to cook rapidly for about 10 minutes.
Each boat may be placed on individual serving plates, or may be disassembled by an ambitious host.

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"The Game & Fish Mastery Library SALMON" By S.G.B. Tennant, Jr., Photography by Arie de Zanger