When the salmon fishermen packed their gear for a few weeks in the wilds of Old Quebec, they often brought an extra jar of capers, nestled safely in a pair of heavy socks, so they wouldn't miss the great treat of a rich caper sauce on a slab of salmon fillet.

1 salmon fillet (about 2 to 3 pounds), skin on and boned
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon freshly cracked black pepper
2 tablespoons melted butter for brushing (or olive oil)

FOR THE CAPER SAUCE:
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
2 cups fish stock (or clam juice)
1 teaspoon crushed green peppercorns
6 tablespoons large Italian or Greek capers with brine

For the caper sauce:

In a sauté pan combine the butter and flour over very low heat, stirring constantly. Do not allow the roux to brown. When the bubbles in the butter are tiny and uniform, add the stock slowly, whisking constantly until the roux thickens, about 5 minutes. Add the green peppercorns during this stage and continue stirring.

Remove from the heat and add the capers and brine, crushing the berries with the back of a large spoon to release their flavor. Return to low heat and stir, incorporating the contents. Adjust for taste with salt and pepper.
Scale and rinse the fillet, and allow it to drip dry. Rub olive oil over the meat and skin and remove any remaining bones. Salt and pepper the fish.

Over a prepared fire with dark (not bright) coals, or an electric or gas grill preheated and set to medium, add any aromatic bits such as wood chips or broken bay leaves as desired. Place the fillet, skin side up, for a brief smoking of about 8 minutes, covered.
Using a long spatula, run down the length of the underside of the fillet, carefully loosening any stuck meat. Carefully roll the fillet over.

Some meat will stick but it is unimportant. Baste the flesh side with the butter, cover the grill and continue cooking for 10 minutes or more, basting as necessary. The fish is done when the flesh flakes away to the pressure of a sharp knife tip at the intersection between skin and meat, or at an internal reading of 140º F at the thickest part.

Remove the fillet to a cutting board and serve each portion by carving vertical sections, al least 4 inches wide, skin and all, and top each with the caper sauce.

back

"The Game & Fish Mastery Library SALMON" By S.G.B. Tennant, Jr., Photography by Arie de Zanger