Pistou is the southern French version of Genoa's pesto. Pesto is made with basil and garlic but also contains pine nuts, sometimes walnuts, and usually Parmigiano Reggiano.

Pistou, a mixture often dolloped into vegetable soup, usually contains neither cheese nor nuts but frequently contains tomatoes.

Purists insist that pistou (and pesto) be made by hand in a large mortar, but most of us don't have a mortar, much less one large enough to do the job efficiently. So use a blender.

The herb crust has an assertive flavor of its own that matches that of the pistou. It is recommended to not combine the tomatoes with the pureed basil because they turn the basil a rather dull green. Add them to the dish separately.

The egg yolk is optional. It turns the basil mixture into a very light mayonnaise and helps hold it together, but if you don't mind seeing little oil droplets in the basil mixture or you're worried about raw egg yolks, just leave it out.

In this recipe the basil leaves are quickly blanched, which keeps the pistou a bright green and softens its flavor somewhat. Pistou made with unblanched leaves will taste fine but takes on a murky gray color.

Makes 6 main-course servings

Six 6 to 8-ounce salmon fillets with the skin and pin bones removed
(Fillets should be no more than 1 inch thick or herb coating will burn before fish is cooked)
Salt (or 1/2 recipe brine)
Pepper
6 tablespoons total of fresh or dried chopped herbs such as thyme, marjoram, oregano, savory, or rosemary, alone or in combination
2 tablespoons olive oil

For the pistou:

2 tablespoons salt
leaves from 1 large bunch basil (about 1 tightly packed cup),
(washed and spun dry)
2 cloves garlic, chopped fine and crushed to a paste with the side of a chefs' knife
1 egg yolk (optional)
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
salt
pepper
4 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, chopped fine, or two cups assorted cherry tomatoes, quartered.

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"Simply Salmon " By James Peterson - Stewart, Tabori & Chang